Throughout a two-year period amid the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations for Christmas were called off within the city of Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This city is where the faithful hold the birth of Jesus occurred.
But, after the recent ceasefire, this sacred city decided that now the festivities would make a comeback, as represented by the lighting of its customary, large holiday tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured a bad two years without celebration; no holiday, no jobs, no work," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to zero."
The mayor acknowledges that the decision of resuming celebrations was not without debate, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – which affects those in its small Christian population, many of whom have relatives in Bethlehem.
"Some may say it is unsuitable and others say it is fitting," Mr Canawati explains. "However, in my heart, I felt that this was the right thing to take since the Christmas season must never be halted or abandoned. This represents a beacon of hope for us."
Locals – both Christians and Muslims – take photographs before the tree hung with gold and red ornaments in Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of international visitors.
Vibrant lights now decorate city streets with signs promoting holiday markets and festive events for children.
"We are delighted to have the tree, first thing, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to be able to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where everything began, therefore here is where we can convey a message globally of what really Christmas represents. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."
Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees in the coming days. Hotels – which have remained mostly vacant for the past two years – have an influx in reservations from Arab citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.
One tourist from Russia, named Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "In my view every person should visit at minimum one time in their life," she states.
"I wish many visitors will soon come back because it's sad without many tourists. The only thing that's good is that you don't have lengthy queues – you can come and see more things. When I came before you had to wait in a queue for a few hours at least."
For now, the souvenir stores dotted around the city experience scant trade, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the Fourth Century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Prior to the Gaza war, it was often crammed with visitors.
"This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life," laments one guide Hamza. "We hope to see individuals coming back like before: from Europe, the Middle East, America, Latin American and all over. We begin with the Christmas tree lighting, and we'll wait."
In the past two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Since the lethal attacks led by Hamas in southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and Israeli settlements to work.
Meanwhile, public servants have received only partial wages by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The PA relies on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is withholding – to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by a UN agency.
Israeli officials state it is holding the funds because the PA makes payments to incarcerated Palestinians that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The authority – facing international pressure to enact reforms – claims it has lately modified its welfare system.
The bleak economic outlook implies that for many Christian Palestinians, even though there are currently public festivities as well as religious services, it will be an austere Christmas.
At the edge of Manger Square, some patrons are waiting to buy hot balls of falafel from several shops.
"We are getting ready for the holiday following one of our most challenging times as Palestinians and as Christians," says Alaa Salameh, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery which has seen its revenues collapse. He notes lately numerous families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional food.
"Christians will try to mark the occasion but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festival or a show or whatever, he doesn't have the funds to spend for this celebration."
In the cave-like grotto at the base of the church, a resident accompanies a small Indian tour group, stooping down near a silver star that indicates the spot where it is said Jesus was born and igniting a candle close by.
Amid ongoing high tensions throughout the area, Bethlehem residents state they are hoping for peace – and hoping for visitors to return to the location where it is believed Christmas began.
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